Was it the inlet valve?
If the problem was the inlet valve, then the water level would have constantly been increasing, and overflowing into the hole in the middle of the cistern:
If you see something like the above, that is, the water line is not constantly above the hole in the middle, that means your inlet valve is probably OK, and the problem is likely to be the outlet valve.
How to confirm the Outlet Valve is the problem
Get a torch, and shine it into the hole in the middle.
When I did this, I saw water was flowing where shown in the picture above! Voila, there was a fault with the outlet valve. The outlet valve is basically a rubber washer that stops water flowing into the pan. It is released when you press flush.
So what now?
You want to replace the outlet valve. Just watch the video:
Then:
Once the mechanism is removed:
Just yank it off:
Now:
Compare the old flush valve, on the right, with the new one, on the left … no wonder it was leaking!:
I used some tap lubricant to help reattach the new washer, as it’s a bit of a struggle to get it back on (but I don’t think this is strictly necessary):
And here you go – nice clean and evenly reattached flush valve:
Replace the dual flush mechanism, and check for success … there you go, no more leaking toilet!
If you are heading off to Bunnings to buy a new flush valve, ask for Item No: 9312232226167 or just print the picture below and bring it along! Not bad for $2.75.
Good luck with it all.
Thanks for the guide, I wasn't sure how to get the flush mechanism out,but now I do and loo is as good as new.
ReplyDeleteThanks for the part no.
ReplyDeleteThe old washer was so stretched that it did not look like the new washer, and you know what Bunnings "help" is like...
The Caroma "repair kit" includes the flush washer, plus the ballcock washers for about $1.50 less than buying them separately.
Part 93122 322 000 44
Cheers,
Andrew
Hi, I was wondering how to unclip a dual flush that has only two clips on the sides not front and back as the plastic seems very stiff it is a mid 90's model.
ReplyDeleteAntonio.
use a small flat screw driver to force open (delicately) the legs from the body of the cistern- one by one, lifting them a bit as you go. Good luck. Be careful not break- the plastic is very brittle
DeleteI've discovered the same problem of an older dual flush housing with side clips and wonder if there are instructions for this model?
ReplyDeleteI struggled as well. Still trying to find how to unclip mine. Because my hands are smaller than my husbands I had to reach in and do it blind. Not sure how straight it is. But it in 90% better.
DeleteI've been struggling with this old early 1990's Caroma cistern as well. Finally found some help on these models with the lugs each side. Head on down to this Whirlpool Forum page and save that plumber's call ...
ReplyDeleteLINK: http://forums.whirlpool.net.au/archive/1393153
Kev
you are a god! saved me a couple of hundred on plumbers
ReplyDeleteMany thanks for the valuable stuff you have presented.
ReplyDeleteDoes anyone know eher you can get the button set that sits in the top of the cistern lid ?
ReplyDeleteAll the ones I can find online seem to be smaller and less wide.
I'm looking for the ones that look like the ones in the image here http://www.powerhousemuseum.com/australia_innovates/?behaviour=view_article&Section_id=1040&article_id=10044#
Although that's from a PowerHouse Museum article so maybe my toilet is getting too old.
This is a better photo of the button assembly I need:
ReplyDeletehttp://i213.photobucket.com/albums/cc73/ambrose78/caroma%20dual%20flush/caromacistern.jpg
Anyone know where I can get this in the USA specifically for the state of Georgia? I simply need the rubber gasket as shown but can't find it anywhere that will ship to the US.. Thanks in advance!
ReplyDeleteHey Steve,
DeleteTry plumbingmall.com
Russell
Hi Does anyone know what the washer is that sits under the duel flush mechanism It sits between the mechanism and the porcelain at the base of the cistern inside the water not the external seating washer The cistern is a 1995 Caroma Sovereign
ReplyDeletemy float just doesn't seem to pop up to the full height. Is this the repair I need to do to stop it leaking. When I take the lid off and manually lift the float a little higher it stops leaking. How do I fix that issue
ReplyDeletePninah there's a small plastic screw on top of the swing arm where it connects to the inlet valve. Turn this screw a few rotations which will stop the inlet valve earlier (e.g. When float is lower than full height).
DeleteI have the same issue as Pninah and have adjusted the small plastic screw but the leak continues. I manually lift the float a little higher and it stops. I think I am in for a new inlet valve? Any other ideas and do bunnings stock inlet valves?
DeleteThanks for the information as I had managed to remove the system last night and replaced both the seating washer (Product #226167) and ballcock washer (Product #226150) early this morning. Everything is back to normal again.
ReplyDeleteMy problem is the dual-flush CaromaSmart won't Refill?
ReplyDeleteThis comment has been removed by the author.
ReplyDeleteThanks for the info, but even after numerous washer replacements I still have a leak. Any ideas?
ReplyDeleteI would be supportive on all your articles and blogs as a result of they are simply up to the mark.
ReplyDeletetoilet repair
Great instructions, very clear. Wasn't sure where to smear the hydroseal. Problem I have is I replaced the seal, but the system is leaking faster now than before - any suggestions?
ReplyDeleteHi, thank you very much for the information. Does anyone know where can I get this in Singapore?
ReplyDeleteThis comment has been removed by a blog administrator.
ReplyDeleteThis comment has been removed by a blog administrator.
ReplyDeleteThis comment has been removed by a blog administrator.
ReplyDeleteHi All,
ReplyDeleteThe operation of my outlet valve is sticky and requires a change. I have a 1994 caroma concorde. The only spare i found for replace is fix-a-loo thunderflush, does anyone know if this is a generic spare that can fit my cistern?
Hi all. I replaced the seating washer but am finding that thef flushing arm isn't resetting itself all the way down after the cistern empties, resulting in a trickle of water flowing to the pan. It just seems to need a bit more weight pushing down from above it and then it seals correctly. Any suggestions please?
ReplyDeleteYes I have the same problem. replacing the washer has not stopped the leak into the pan. What now?
ReplyDeleteYes I have the same problem. replacing the washer has not stopped the leak into the pan. What now?
ReplyDeleteThanks for pointing me in the right direction - your blog's been an immense help.
ReplyDeleteI just had the same problem. I replaced the washer, and things still leaked through. I found a comment on a youtube video to lubricate the washer with soap and water and to turn it around three times to seat it.
ReplyDeleteThat fixed it perfectly for me
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ReplyDeleteIt's just wonderful,
ReplyDeleteThanks for the share,..
Valve Sales
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ReplyDeleteThank you for the clear instructions and photos.
ReplyDeleteOur 10-year-old Caroma suddenly wouldn't stop running (not just trickling), and I determined that the fault was in the outflow. I got a Caroma-branded washer that came with instructions. First step: remove the hinge pin and remove the float.
To cut a long story slightly shorter, if your Caroma has a small float mechanism tucked away on the right hand side of the cistern and no arm overhanging the flush mechanism, just ignore the float and get stuck into removing the flush mechanism.
Caroma suggest lubricating the washer with soap and water, and that worked well for me. To centre the washer around the outflow pipe took closer to 20 turns than the recommended 3.
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DeleteI have replaced the outlet valve of an inbuilt ( behind the wall) cistern because it was leaking. Now the half flush has stopped leaking but the full flush continues to leak. How can this be?
ReplyDeleteWhat a legend! Thank you so much my hubby works a lot so a lot of the fixes around the house either take forever or I do them, so I looked on the net found this and went to Bunnings today bought the rubber valve (2016- it was $5.20) and followed your instructions and the toilet doesn't run anymore, I'm so impressed with your blog I will definitely look at more things I can fix myself... Cheers thanks heaps from the little Mrs !
ReplyDeleteWash Basin Waste Pipes, Sanitary Band Pipe, PVC Long Band Pipe, PVC Joint Nut, Connection Pipe, Plastic Toilet Seat Cover, PVC Short Bend Pipe, Ball Cock Valve, Bathroom & Toilet Accessories/Fittings Manufacturer & Supplier.
ReplyDeleteHi,
ReplyDeleteThanks for your post. Leaking taps can be responsible for thousands of litres of water waste every year. That’s not just bad for the environment, it adds up to significant expense
So good mate, I was at a loss after buying a caroma seal and it it didn't work! Thanks so much for taking the time to share!
ReplyDeleteSome hints re this fix
ReplyDeleteThe flush assembly does not fit that cistern
The red seal (also available at Bunnings) seals better
The best lube is dishwashing/hand soap
Dual flush mechanism is held by 2 clips - on the body of the assembly
good vid bro
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ReplyDeleteCan I ask what is the size of the washer when it is new? 63mm sound right?
ReplyDeleteThis comment has been removed by a blog administrator.
ReplyDeleteThanks for all the tips. Today I was able to fix with help from hubby removing the flush mechanism as I couldn't unclip it myself. Easy once I have replaced the washer. I used liquid dishwashing soap to lubricate and turn the outflow pipe nth time until it's centered. I used the caroma product code 405006.
ReplyDeleteThis comment has been removed by a blog administrator.
ReplyDeleteawesome, thanks. My toilet is leaking pretty bad. Now I can check both inlet and outlet valves.
ReplyDeleteFor the next person that finds this thread like I did today... Had the mechanism in and out 3 or 4 times, changed outlet washer with $3.50 part from mitre 10, still leaking unless I pushed down quite hard as can be seen down the middle with a torch. Had given up then read the "lube with detergent and spin" tried that, just too slippery to spin! Then the magic happened, instead of trying to pull washer OUT from centre with pliers to try to centre it I started PUSHing with thumb from edge inwards while rotating whole mechanism until had a very nice, smaller, "fatter" centred washer with little bumps on white part JUST showing and hoo bloody ray a silent, non leaking toilet!
ReplyDeleteHooray. You're a legend. This thumb sliding worked for me.
DeleteBIG THANKS for posting this, saved me a call-out to a plumber for two 20 year old Coroma's. Will add one thing, my seals were so old that they left black gunk in the narrow space were the seals sits, preventing a good seal. Pulled everything back out, thoroughly cleaned the area that the seal fits into (with a mild solvent) and that did the trick. Can't use harsh cleaning agents though, will damage the new seal, vinegar works ok.
ReplyDeletewhen replacing the outlet valve on a caroma dual flush does iy matter which way you put it on .THERE IS A SLIGHT RIDGE ON ONE SIDE.
ReplyDeleteThanks - $3.15 at Home Hardware. Biggest trouble was getting the old one off. Tips here on centreing the washer also very helpful.
ReplyDeleteThanks for the tip. Been trying to figure out how to fix this without calling a plumber in for ages (been shutting off the water to the cistern once it's filled).
ReplyDeleteCan head to Bunnings tomorrow, get the part and give this a try.
Will let you know how it went:)
Have replace valve washer and it seals quite nicely.
ReplyDeleteProblem is plunger doesn't always go down properly seems to get stuck quick push of button all good intil next time
Thanks in advance
Where can I buy the black/red flush valve gasket seal for my two piece dual flush toilet in the Los Angeles, California area or on internet?
ReplyDeleteWhat a sensational site! Just some tips from my experience.
ReplyDeleteWhen unclipping the valve, do the back 2 clips first then the front and it will pretty much pop straight out. I initially unclipped the front 2 and spent ages trying to get the back line undone
Also putting the valve back in - try to put all 4 clips in “halfway” and then push it all the way in. If you do the front one completely then I couldn’t get the back ones in at all
hi. ive changed the rubber seal on the outlet valve . used oil and soapy water but still leaking. maybe i stretched the seal too much getting it on and off. heading to bunnings to buy another seal.
ReplyDeleteGood one ,I didn't know how to get to the washer and this showed me
ReplyDeleteHow can l remove the mechanism on a 1984 dual flush cistern please? I need to renew all washers including the outlet washer to the pan
ReplyDeleteHello
ReplyDeleteI have changed the rubber seal on the outlet valve but it is still leaking. The main Central mechanism doesn’t seem to drop into place after each flush. This is a 25 year old ceramic caroma cistern. Am I able to exchange the whole mechanism?
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ReplyDeleteI have a Coroma dual flush - model LC1036 cistern which is leaking. I have turned off the water, flushed the toilet but cannot get the main section out to get to the washer. I have tried twisting it & there seems to be no clip at the bottom. Has any one have any suggestions
ReplyDeleteYour directions were spot on, thanks. My particular coroma had ridges at the back side of cistern rather than the tabs seen at the front, but everything else was the same.
ReplyDeleteYou may want to clean out all the other spam in the comments.